Tarumi

In a residential neighbourhood of Komone, Itabashi, 魚菜酒房 樽見 is a place to start with the day’s specials or an assortment of sashimi. The fresh fish, including bluefin tuna with cleanly cut edges, has a pleasing bite; the careful preparation extends even to the garnishes and shredded daikon served alongside. For something fried, there is tender small spear squid tempura, tempura with conger eel and maitake mushrooms, and fragrant satsuma-age—fried fish cakes—among a range of dishes well suited to drinks.

Alongside the fish, carefully made dashi is central to the cooking here. That savoury stock comes through in the gently flavoured dashimaki tamago, a rolled omelette, and in beef tendon and daikon simmered until so richly seasoned that even the broth is tempting. To finish, there is soft, fluffy Ise udon, a comforting bowl to bring the meal to a close.

Drinks range from seasonal local sake recommendations and shochu to wine and sours, making it possible to choose a glass to go with the food. Seating includes a counter with a lively view of the kitchen, tables and private rooms, all in a relaxed setting for a leisurely evening meal. The restaurant opens on Friday and Saturday evenings, and dinner is often fully booked, so making a reservation in advance is recommended.